Do you mean RTX 4060? So which gpu do you think is better?
You can upgrade Macs but the prices are a bit crazy from Apple, for example increase RAM from 8gb to 16gb is £200 but on Win pc, it is about £13. Same for HDs, £400 for ssd, from 250gb to 1TB.
The RTX 4060 performance is roughly equivalent to the Radeon RX 6700 10GB.
My Go To Source For Selecting A GPU Upgrade
I never invest in the premium you have to pay for the latest top of the line GPUs. If you go down a tier or two the price/performance value is typically much better. Sadly, bitcoin mining has completely distorted the whole pricing logic of this market.
Do keep in mind that as time goes by any particularly popular model will slowly reduce in price, and then eventually skyrockets again as it goes out of production and becomes hard to find, but still in demand.
I run my 4 year old RTX 2070 Super on a 1440k ultrawide monitor, and at that resolution it’s still equivalent to the much newer RTX 4060.
As far as performance doing the Remove process in TPAI the GPU-Z sensor report shows pretty clearly that not very much of the 8GB VRAM memory is ever being accessed (approx 10-15%), and within the overall processing time of the image the GPU utilization only spikes up for a second, or two, or three. The slight differences in GPU engagement time is directly related to the position of the Speed/Quality slider.
Yes I thought it was a model car.
Tilt/shift lenses can give similar effects, these images were trendy a few years ago but not seen many lately.
Thanks. Radeon RX 6700 from my supplier is about £330 for 12gb, so £30 more. But as it is not a standard fit in their ready made computers, it will cost around £100 more than the RTX 4060, so a no go for me. I"m already spending more than I want on this computer. The RTX 3060 12gb is around £270 but again not a standard fit.
RTX 2070 Super seems similar performance to the RTX 4060 but the price was also similar?
I could get RTX 3050 for around £60 less than the RTX 4060 but that does not seem a worthwhile saving.
Imo, I love it.
This was done with my micro four thirds Olympus E-P5, and the Lumix 20mm lens.
Image Credits: yarina.tattooing
Just to note:
Such a tattoo is a very privacy-relevant motif, why, because it is so unique and makes the person identifiable.
If you watch the video actively, it seems to take forever, but I can’t do it manually in two minutes.
I’ve a Logitech Gaming mouse (G502)
Canon 24 mm T/S (shift down), 4 or 3 images horizontal pano.
I need to recreate it with the next enhance update, the resolution will be much better.
That is not the effect I was talking about. I’m talking shallow depth of field and everything looks like toytown.
ah ok, thats different.
I really like TS lenses and I didn’t understand why Fujifilm didn’t have one for their medium format until now,
Oh, nice! 
Focus: VIDEO: How to create the tilt-shift toy town look for your photos.
It is not something I’m keen on.
That’s not my point.
It’s about perspective correction, people prefer to flatten the landscape before they think about how to keep high mountains, for example.
For example, you can set up a camera with a wide angle vertically and then make a panorama, the important thing is that the camera is straight on each axis.
With TS lenses you simply shift.
Another video.
@bin.sun
I would wish that the resolution of the impainting would be higher, so that the result becomes finer and less noticeable.
The nice thing about the result is that you have virtually no rework, besides the little resolution.
Couldn’t the software split the tiles itself for good quality instead of giving the message that the mask is getting too big?
I think it may be the keep area that made the main difference. I had no good luck selecting large areas and thus erased all those small lines.
Might try again with keep
i think so too.
Once you understand how the software works, you can predict the results.
Do you have some kind of recommendations when to use keep area and when to use erase?
Same goes for padding and even more so for the quality slider where quality very often is NOT better than speed.
Currently I find the results highly unpredictable which is my main concern atm.
Remove if you want it gone.
Keep if you want something to stay. (skin)
Remove doesn’t really remove anything at the moment, the problem is that it doesn’t know what should go there, I would say the immediate surroundings.
I’m still retouching hair and I can get rid of it better with remove, but the model wants to put hair back in that place, which is nice but not wanted in that place (replaced with the surroundings, yea right but wrong).
The larger the padding, the more the model in the picture looks at what could fit in the spot, “normal” usually fits.
The lower the quality, the better it fits in with the rest of the picture.
The image with the hair is a bit noisy, so lower quality (30%, for example) is better here, for natural images that have little to no noise because they are denoised, higher quality is better (70%), for example.
I simply move the quality slider roughly in the direction where I think it fits, without thinking too much.
A.h. padding influences the result of erase very strongly, my hair result is better when I set padding to none.
If I draw the mask too roughly, the result is usually not so good, if I draw it more finely, it is better if I pay more attention to the details.
Which brings me back to the assumption that it is a tool and not a miracle tool, a tool with a good result.
There’s nothing to upgrade in them… You must have the foresight to buy as much as you’re gonna need from the beginning… everything else just plugs into them…
