Tip: Three step tuning method, to recover bad quality videos

  1. Manual mode or relative Auto mode?
  2. What about the rest of the parameters, what value you set them?
  1. Manual mode or relative Auto mode?
  2. What about the rest of the parameters, what value you set them?
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relative auto mode for each of the models, and other values at 0

So basically the rest are on Auto mode… That is why it is always important to say if you use Manual Mode or relative Auto mode, as value of “0” in both modes mean different things.

Yes. Sometimes when there is no noise in the video I use Prob4 relative to auto with improve detail 100%

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I have.
It takes quite a bit of time and doesn’t really offer much of an improvement.

For the moment I’ve remained at 4.2.0

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Yes first pass Proteus-denoising (manual mode), I do this too in some cases (without upscale), but often at low values (5-10) to keep details.

The denoise function from Proteus is harder than the one from Iris and I like it. Ok we have NYX3 but this removes the noise from the smallest gap, this can result in very hard contours, Proteus does it not at this depth, more overall.

But if source has low noise/fog, it’s better skiping this step and you do denoise within main pass and loose less image information.

Recovering Details at the first pass instead at the last, results in harder object contours. This could be good or bad, pending on source and result that you want to get.

Is DS9 film on DVD interlaced? I think not, give try set progressive in Topaz. You see interlaced or not by fast movements, if there are no frayed contours it’s not interlaced.

The whole interlaced stuff is a curse, since CRT screens could only display interlaced DVD players produce fields when playing back.

But that doesn’t mean the source material on the DVD has these image offsets, most of it was filmed in progressive, but not always

Thanks for this great thread, really informative. Relatively new to this, so can I ask would this potentially apply to animation too or just live action?

Currently trying to upscale Spider-Man the Animated Series (1994) on DVD and getting some mixed results using Artemis. I’m getting some mixed results, close ups look great, but wider shots have a bad Haloing effect.

I’d go with GAIAI CG for animated stuff, Artemis does too much denoising and over-sharpening which is causing the halo. This is the least aggressive model for upscales with only minor sharpening applied. The Other option would be going with Proteus which would allow you to tweak it more to your liking but chances are you’ll still get mixed results. The dehalo options just blur so I wouldn’t use any of those personally. Also if it’s from DVD it’s probably interlaced so you may want to use the Dione model before you upscale.